“I’m sorry for the things I said when it was winter,” reads the writing on a piece of weathered driftwood at a gift shop on Cape Cod. But there’s no need to be sorry. The Outer Cape in the dead of winter — is the place to be, especially if you like solitude and watching the power of Mother Nature shaping the dunes or roaring in the ocean. Bundle up, breathe in the sea air, and enjoy the perfect winter getaway where beaches, dunes and windswept views await.
While the Outer Cape towns of Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro and Provincetown aren’t ghost towns in the winter, not too much is open, from clam shacks to gift shops to restaurants. But what is always open is the ocean, the dunes and the salt air where — as Henry David Thoreau wrote — “a man may stand there and put all America behind him.”
I’ve been visiting Cape Cod since I was a baby lying on a beach blanket. My family lived on the Cape from 1997 to 2024, and during that time I discovered the magic of the offseason. Here’s a look at each of four Outer Cape towns and some places to explore and experience during a Cape Cod winter.
Eastham
This is the gateway to the 44,600-acre Cape Cod National Seashore. As you are traveling along Route 6, be sure to visit Fort Hill. The views of Nauset Marsh and across the barrier beach to the Atlantic Ocean are the best along the Outer Cape. Your next stop should be at the Salt Pond Visitors Center to get your bearings from the helpful staff. Check out the museum of Cape Cod’s natural and human history as well as an excellent gift shop. As you leave Salt Pond, head east to Coast Guard Beach. Consistently cited as one of the best beaches in the United States, the barrier beach separates the Atlantic Ocean and Nauset Marsh. Visitors can stay in their cars and watch the pounding winter surf, walk the grounds of the Coast Guard Life Saving Station or hit the beach. Just to the north is the popular Nauset Light (yes, the one on the potato chip bag) and more stunning views of the ocean. Time your visit right during a bitter cold spell and head to First Encounter Beach to watch Cape Cod Bay turn into a frozen tundra as the waves and water freeze over.
Wellfleet
The 1,183-acre Mass Audubon Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary is a wonderful way to explore the natural habitat of Cape Cod. There are five miles of trails through pitch pine and scrub oak forests and across a boardwalk over salt marshes with spectacular views of Cape Cod Bay. Near the center of Wellfleet is Uncle Tim’s Bridge, a weathered wooden span across a salt marsh to an island filled with pitch pines. Looking for a longer hike? Cape Cod National Seashore’s Great Island Trail has hikes of up to nine miles long that take visitors high above Cape Cod Bay with wonderful vistas from the top of pitch pine dunes. Be sure to visit the quaint Wellfleet Cultural District, with shops along Main Street including Laxmi, Drift, Newcomb Hollow Shop and Abiyoyo. Take a drive along Ocean View Drive and visit some of the beautiful Wellfleet beaches like Lecount Hollow, White Crest, Cahoon Hollow and Newcomb Hollow; the middle two offer commanding views from high on the dunes.
Truro
A vineyard on the Outer Cape? Hard to believe, but Truro Vineyards pioneered the art of maritime grape growing, noting it produces wines “with intense flavor and lush varietal character.” There’s a tasting room and gift shop in an 1830s restored farmhouse. The Atlantic Spice Company has dozens of bulk spices, herbs, teas and potpourri as well as gourmet and organic products. Another must-see lighthouse is Highland Light, also known as Cape Cod Light. The lighthouse is in the middle of Highland Links, one of the oldest and most scenic golf courses, with its several holes on the edge of massive sandy cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Beaches to visit include Coast Guard (Truro’s version) and Head of the Meadow. A hiking trail connects the two beaches. Take a drive along Shore Road to Provincetown and see the scenic cottages that line Cape Cod Bay.
Provincetown
The Provincetown Public Library is home to the Rose Dorothea, a half-scale replica of a schooner built in Essex in 1905, recreated as a tribute to the town’s fishermen and New England shipbuilding. Both the Provincetown Art Association and Museum and Provincetown Fine Arts Work Center include local and regional art. The museum’s permanent collection has more than 3,000 works by more than 700 artists. Park and walk along Commercial Street to visit the eclectic shops, and then head over to the harbor to see the fishing vessels and panoramic views of Provincetown behind you. Visit Race Point Beach and the Old Harbor Life-Saving Station. The Dune Shacks Trail will take visitors into the heart of the parabolic dunes on the eastern side of Provincetown. The parking area is along Route 6 across from Snail Road, with its trail taking visitors past towering dunes and rustic dune shacks that get rented out during the warmer months. It’s another great spot to put all America behind you.
Read More:
- U.S. Beach Destinations for the 50+ Crowd
- Quick Getaways: Provincetown, MA
- Quick Getaways: Historic Boston, Massachusetts
