Upstate on a Plate: Succotash

Iconic dishes that shaped the flavor of New York’s North Country and beyond

Food is one of upstate New York’s great storytellers, and in The Flavor of Upstate New York, author June Hersh invites us to listen closely. On the surface, the region’s dishes are fun, creative and deeply comforting — the kind of food best enjoyed with cold beer and good conversation, writes Hersh. But beneath every familiar bite are layers of history, geography and culture.

Chicken riggies, salt potatoes and beef on weck speak to the resourcefulness of Italian, Irish and German immigrants. White corn carries the legacy of the Indigenous Haudenosaunee people who first cultivated this land. Even a simple sprinkle of granola reflects the region’s long tradition of innovation.

Hersh dedicates this book to the Haudenosaunee who revered this land, to the industrious immigrants who helped it flourish, and to the Jewish families who brought humor, mahjong and endless buffets to the Catskills when few other places welcomed them. Their stories — and their food — come together in a rich cultural and culinary mosaic that defines upstate New York. The Flavor of Upstate New York is part cookbook, certainly, but more, it’s a living history, showing how meals have long brought people together at the table across generations, cultures and communities. Here are just a few recipes that capture that shared spirit and the true taste of upstate. Here’s a recipe for succotash.

Succotash

Serves 6-8 as a side dish

Start to finish: 1 hour 15 minutes

Hersh begins her book where upstate New York’s food story starts — with the Indigenous people who have lived on this land for centuries. Succotash, a simple yet meaningful vegetable medley, honors the Haudenosaunee tradition of the Three Sisters: corn, beans and squash, the foundation of Native agriculture. The beauty of this dish is its flexibility — add what you love, leave out what you don’t — but it truly shines when made in summer, with sweet fresh corn, tender climbing green beans, fresh-picked squash and sun-warmed tomatoes.

Ingredients

• 1 medium spaghetti squash, seeds removed
• Olive oil
• Kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 6 ounces fresh green beans, trimmed and cut into ¼-inch pieces
• 1 small red pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch pieces
• 1 medium-sized zucchini, cut into ¼-inch pieces
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 3 cups corn kernels (about 3 ears)
• 1 cup small green or white lima beans, frozen or canned
• 1 cut quartered grape tomatoes
• Freshly cracked black pepper
• ¼ cup Parmesan cheese

Instructions

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
• Cut the spaghetti squash in half, lengthwise, and remove the seeds. You don’t want to remove too much flesh, so a knife or kitchen shears can help you release the seeds more easily. Drizzle the squash with a touch of olive oil and a light sprinkling of kosher salt. Place them cut-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet, prick the outer skin with a fork and roast for 30 minutes. While the squash roasts, prep your vegetables.
• Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the butter in a skillet. Add the chopped onions and cook, over medium-high heat, for about 5 minutes. Drop in the green beans, red pepper, zucchini and garlic. Cook and stir for about 5 minutes until the vegetables begin to take on a light golden color.
• Add the corn, lima beans and tomatoes. Season with about ½ teaspoon of kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon of freshly cracked black pepper. Cook an additional 5 minutes.
• While the vegetables cook, use a fork to create spaghetti strands with your squash; set aside.
• Spoon the vegetable mixture into a baking dish. Top with the spaghetti squash, scattering it to cover the entire dish. Drizzle with a touch of olive oil, ½ teaspoon of kosher salt, a few turns of black pepper and the Parmesan cheese. Bake for about 30 minutes or until the top is lightly browned. You can place the dish under the broiler at the end to crisp up even more.

Read More:

• Homemade Granola
• Beef on Weck
• Local Refreshments: The Capital Region’s Craft Beverage Trail