Baking with Heart
Helen Goh’s solo debut cookbook is about so much more than dessert
If you’ve ever swooned over one of famed British restaurateur and food writer Yotam Ottolenghi’s iconic desserts, there’s a good chance Helen Goh had a hand in it. As his longtime collaborator and co-author of the bestselling cookbooks Sweet and Comfort, Goh has spent more than decade developing recipes that delight the senses and celebrate bold, layered flavors.
Now, in her first solo cookbook, Baking and the Meaning of Life: How to Find Joy in 100 Recipes, Goh steps into the spotlight with stories and recipes (beautifully illustrated by photographer Laura Edwards) that reflect her rich, multicultural background and love of baking as a way to connect and share joy.
We’ve picked out a few recipes from the book that highlight the cozy, warm flavors of the season and give us all a great excuse to turn on the oven and fill the kitchen with the aromas of deliciousness during the chilly winter months. Here’s a favorite for Dutch Baby Pancakes.
Dutch Baby Pancake with Mortadella & Arugula
Serves 4 to 6
“What I love about brunch is the sense that anything goes: sweet, savory and everything in between. From bloody marys to banana smoothies, quiche to crepes, bacon to blueberries, mimosas to mocktails, it’s all good. I love the mix-and-match vibe of this in-between, convivial meal.
The pair of Dutch Babies in this book (editor’s note: Baking & the Meaning of Life also includes a dreamy recipe for Dutch Babies with Berries and Yogurt Cream) are my secret weapons for brunch. Whether you’re Team Sweet or Team Savory, these dramatic, dutch baby pancakes are ridiculously easy to make. With just a tweak of the simple batter, the pancakes can be sweet or savory. Golden brown and crisp at the edges, soft and custardy in the center, they are texturally delightful to eat. They arrive out of the oven magnificently puffed up and then subside helpfully into a bowl shape that will carry any topping you fancy.
Don’t feel restricted by the toppings I have given here — make this your own by substituting with your favorites. Just be careful not to overload the tender pancakes.”
Ingredients
- ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
- ¾ ounce Parmesan cheese, finely grated (3 tablespoons), plus extra, shaved, for topping
- ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
- ⅛ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
- 2 large eggs
- ½ cup whole milk
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 2 teaspoons olive oil
- 4 thin slices Edam cheese (about 2 ¼ ounces)
- 4 large slices mortadella (about 2 ¼ ounces)
- 1 ½ cups arugula
- Olive oil and lemon juice to dress the arugula
Instructions for Making Dutch Baby Pancakes
- Whisk the flour, Parmesan, salt and pepper in a medium bowl and make a well in the center. Crack the eggs into the well, whisk to break them up, then slowly add the milk. Continue to whisk, gradually drawing in the flour until the mixture is smooth. Cover the bowl or transfer the batter to a jar, cover and refrigerate until ready to bake (it can be kept in the fridge for up to 2 days).
- Preheat the oven to 400 ̊F and place a large, deep ovenproof skillet, about 12 inches in diameter, into the oven to heat up for about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, take the batter out of the fridge and stir well.
- Remove the empty pan from the oven and add the butter and olive oil. Swirl the pan until the butter has melted, then return it to the oven. Pull out the oven rack slightly, then carefully pour the batter into the pan all at once. Push the rack back into the oven and bake for about 25 minutes, until the pancake is golden brown and puffed up.
- Meanwhile, dress the arugula lightly with olive oil and lemon juice.
- When the pancake is cooked, lift it out of the pan with a spatula and slide it onto a large plate. Drape the slices of cheese on the bottom of the pancake, followed by the slices of mortadella. Top with the dressed arugula and shave extra Parmesan cheese all over. Serve immediately.
Preparation & Serving Tip
- Have the pan very hot before pouring the batter in — this is key to the pancake’s impressive rise.
- Have your toppings ready to go as soon as the pancake comes out of the oven because it will deflate almost immediately. While that doesn’t affect the taste or texture, you won’t want to miss the gasps when your guests see that glorious puffed-up pancake emerge.
